It is a holiday tradition at our house to cook whole beef tenderloin as a special occasion treat.  This cut is great to serve groups of friends and family that gather during the holidays and share this gift with them.  It tells them they are special to you. 

Beef tenderloin comes from the loin of a steer or heifer.  The tenderloin refers to the Psoas major muscle the runs along the central spine more or less between the shoulder blades and the hip socket.  Since this muscle does very little work in a quadruped it is the tenderest part of the animal. 

You can leave it whole or cut it into steaks.  When left whole the thick center can also be called Chateaubriand.    Created by his personal chef, Montmireil, for vicomte François-René de Châteaubriand, (1768–1848), the author and diplomat who served Napoleon as an ambassador and Louis XVII as Secretary of State for two years. This cut is usually only offered as a serving for two, as there is only enough meat in the center of the average fillet for two portions.

Whole tenderloins are often sold as PSMOs (pismos), which is short for peeled, silver skin, and side muscle left on. The PSMO is vacuum sealed in plastic, and can be safely refrigerated longer than many other cuts of meat. PSMOs also offer considerable savings over smaller cuts as they require little handling by the butcher, but obviously require more preparation on the part of the chef by doing the trimming.

Since it is the least stringy part of the animal, most beef dishes requiring high quality meat, such as steak tartare, are ideally made from the tenderloin.
So, if you invest in this most expensive cut of beef as a special treat you naturally want to be assured that it is prepared to perfection.  It does not take a chef to cook this cut perfectly and I will tell you how to do it.

The whole tenderloin in a grassfed animal is only 2.5 - 3 lb in size.  Like all beef it is best to have it at room temperature before you cook.  So, take the beef out of the refrig at least an hour before cooking. 

A whole tenderloin generally comes with one fat end and one skinny end.  If left like this it would cook unevenly and one end would be dried to a crisp while the fat end would not be done.  To eliminate this from being a problem I always fold the skinny end over on itself (trimmed of coarse) until both ends are approximately the same thickness.  I tie the roast at two-inch intervals with butcher string.  Not only does this keep the roast together where it is doubled but it keeps the entire roast from flattening out while cooking.  This gives you a more uniformly shaped roast and allows it to cook more evenly.
I always sear my tenderloin roast on top of the stove first to give a dark, caramelized crust before finishing it in the oven.  Pat the beef dry before searing.    Add kosher salt and fresh ground pepper to the outside before starting to sear.  I like to use a heavy cast iron skillet on medium high heat.  I usually do this in a dry skillet or if you like you can add a minimum amount of grapeseed or other high heat oil. Remember you are dealing with a round roast and this will require that you sear on all four sides to give an even crust.  You need a couple of minutes of undisturbed cooking on each side to form a proper crust so resist turning multiple times.
 
Once you have a nice dark and even crust remove the roast from the stove and while still in the pan finish by roasting in the oven.  I keep the oven temperature at 325.  Pay attention and when the roast reaches 120 degrees I remove it from the oven, tent with aluminum foil and let rest in a warm place for 15 minutes.  Since the beef continues to cook while resting the temperature will continue to rise another 10-15 degrees. This should give you a perfect medium-rare. The rest is very important as it allows for the internal juices to redistribute into the meat fibers rather than running out when you slice the roast causing the beef to dry out.

Slice your beautiful tenderloin roast into servings.  I like to do this at the table in front of my quests and serve their plates from the board.
Enjoy!

Grazing America Texas
Fourth Annual Conference of the American Grassfed Association

The fourth annual conference for the American Grassfed Association was held in Austin, Texas November 1-4, 2007.  The conference was a huge success in further building a bridge from the farm to the table.  On hand to learn and network were participants from both sides of the bridge; producers of beef, bison, pork, poultry, sheep and goats as well as foodies represented by groups such as Chef’s Collaborative, Slow Food, RAFT, Edible Austin, celebrated chefs and many local chefs.  This interaction was facilitated by the foundation of information supplied by the researchers, academics and experts in the fields of forages, processing and animal husbandry.  This mix also included attendance by the USDA and end use retailers.

Highlights of the conference included:
The opening reception on Thursday evening was kicked off with a keynote address by John Mackey, CEO and founder of Whole Foods Market.  In his presentation, The Future of Food, the tone was set to critically examine who we are as producers and consumers of the precious natural resources of our planet and how we use these resources to feed ourselves.  Truly, producers and consumers alike saw how the efforts of this form of agriculture are to produce food not just animals.

The food at the opening reception was the best presentation of grassfed meats and dairy I personally have ever witnessed.  Locally sourced food prepared by some of Austin’s most renowned chef’s provided a celebration of Real Farm Food that was magnificent.  Participating restaurants included Hudson’s-on-the-Bend, Aquerelle, Navajo Grill, Barr Mansion, WFM Culinary Center, Starlite, Sheraton Austin Hotel, Kerbey Lane Cafe, Cibo, Texas Farm to Table Cafe and Trio.  Local grassfed producers Betsy Ross Grassfed Beef, Full Quiver Farms, Gunderman Farms Organic, Alexander Family Farm, Thunder Heart Bison, Loncito’s Lamb, West Wind Farms, Bandera Grassland and My Father’s Farm provided the excellent foods.

Friday was full of workshops and seminars aimed at grassfed production.  Highlighting these workshops was a butcher session with Stuart Minick from Scotland who made a presentation of European style cuts as he broke down a side of beef and a lamb.  As the carcass was broken down the meat cutters and panelist discussed the various cuts and how they are used in the retail and restaurant venues.    It was standing room only as the workshop went on for the day.

While this carcass utilization workshop continued  concurrent presentations included Getting Started in Grass – Learning how to be a grassfed farmer by Mark Moseley;  Using New Management Tools & Strategies On-Farm by Anne Malleau;  An Overview of the Grassfed Industry, the Way Nature Intended by Dr. William Swecker (Virginia Tech);  Good Livestock Handling Pays by Jennifer Woods;  The Influence of Animal Temperament on Production Traits and Carcass Quality by Dr. Ron Randel and Dr. Rhonda Vann;   Multi-Species Farming by Anna Bassett;    Planning a Grassfed System Starting from the Carcass Up, What you Need to Know Concerning Supplements by Dr. William Swecker;   Impact of Pasture-Based Beef Finishing on Meat Quality, CLA levels, Consumer Acceptance and Producer Profitability by Dr. Carol Lorenzen and Dr. Kevin Moore;  What’s In a Label? Government Label Claims, Private/Third-Party Certification, and the Consumer Perspective; and QA and Program Compliance for Whole Foods Market by Andrew Gunther. 

Not wanting to miss a minute of opportunity a box lunch was served with meatloaf sandwiches from grassfed beef supplied by White Oak Pastures.  The speaker was Linda Falliace who presented a moving recollection of her family’s fight to save their flock of sheep which the USDA destroyed in 2003.  This is recounted in her book Mad Sheep, the True Story Behind the USDA's War on a Family Farm. 

Friday evening the family style banquet featured grassfed beef tips over noodles supplied by American GrassFed Beef.  Noted author and grassfed advocate, Jo Robinson presented A Wild 7-Year Ride which chronicled the progress grassfarmers have made in recent years in transforming economical “locker meat” and ordinary farm food into highly sought-after, premium products. Jo also discussed the new challenges the community faces as it begins to “fly above the radar.” And presented some new/old ways to enhance meat tenderness, reduce pathogens, and increase the nutritional value of the food. She maintains that improving food quality and safety is the key to continued success.
   
Saturday events began early with a presentation by Martin O’Conner, Branch Chief of the Agricultural Marketing Service concerning the newly published grassfed claim and how their verification program will be implemented.  This presentation and the face to face questions were invaluable to producers and users alike.  It set the stage for the decision in the general session meeting the next day to further plans for a separate AGA grassfed certification program that would more closely coincide with our beliefs as to the meaning of the term “grassfed”.  Standing on the four principle legs of our AGA best practices this would include a forage diet, raised on open pasture, without antibiotics and no added hormones.

Saturday provided another workshop of Artisan Cheesemaking and Cheese Tasting by Dr. Larry Faillace and tours of a grassfed beef operation at the farm of Besty Ross and a tour to Boggy Creek Farm, an urban farm located in Austin.

Saturday afternoon was highlighted by a RAFT picnic with Gary Nabhan as the speakers.  His presentation